I use the following steps on all the models I paint

Step 1 - Construct Model
The first step is to construct the model. I use a rapid epoxy for this, as it gives a strong bond, and does not need overnight curing. I also use the gel type of superglue for small parts that cannot be fixed using epoxy.
Remember to attach all flagstaffs at this point as gluing them later can affect paintwork.

Step 2 - Fix Model to Base
I always fix the model to its base before painting, as it makes it easier to handle, and avoids damage to the painted areas when texturing the base. As my models are used for Smoke on the Water, I use a base that is 5mm larger than the model on each side.
The base is made from either thin plywood, or plastic. Try not to use cardboard, as this will warp and swell if it gets wet.
Glue the hull of the model to the base using 5 minute epoxy or a similar glue, and allow to harden.

Step 3 - Apply Texture to Base
Using a household filler, the finer the better (I personally use Fine Texture Polyfilla), mould to base to simulate low waves.
Add the bow wave of the ship, its wake and any additional wake created by paddlewheels etc.
The filler can be moulded by smoothing onto the base with a modelling knife.
Be careful to clean the filler off the knife before it sets, as it can ruin the blade.

Step 4 - Undercoat Model
Apply a matt black undercoat to the entire model, including the base.
I use Games Workshop's Black Spray undercoat as it is fine and does not obscure the detail.
Many automobile undercoats are too thick and detail is lost.
Apply several thin coats until all areas are an even matt black.

Step 5 - Paint Base
What colour you paint the base depends upon the historical area in which the vessel was used.
For river vessels, brown may be appropriate, but I use blue, as this is more versatile and may represent sea or rivers.
Painting the base is done in several stages. First paint the entire base in a shade slightly darker than your required colour (I use a navy blue for this purpose). Brush gradually lighter colours over the base so as to only catch the tops of the waves.
Apply less of each succesive colour until only the crests of the wave are painted with the lightest shade.
I do this by adding increasing amounts of first mid blue, and then white to the original dark blue until reaching an almost white colour.
Brush a little white on the tops of the bow wave and wake to highlight them.

Step 6 - Main Colours
Using the drybrushing technique, paint the appropriate areas of the vessel such as armour, decks, hull etc. Using this technique leaves black between deck planking, ironclad plating etc. and brings out the detail.

Step 7 - Weathering
Some areas, particularly armour, can be enhanced by weathering. For this I use a rust red/brown colour, or a lighter version of the main colour if not working on armour.
Be careful not to overdo this. Small areas of weathering are more effective. Patches on or near the waterline are most effective for rust. Use the same drybrushing technique as before.

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